Stay in history, not just a hotel
Kyoto offers a vast array of accommodation options, but it's rare to find a place that truly evokes the feeling of "living in history." A century-old machiya townhouse nestled between the Takasegawa and Kamogawa rivers, restored and revitalized by VMG, is precisely that kind of place. Hidden among the old houses, with no prominent sign, it's practically unnoticed unless you're looking for it. This unassuming presence makes travelers feel like they've stepped into a Kyoto story all their own.
Space: Private but imperfect silence
Upon entering the hostel, public spaces are minimal, with most space reserved for guests' private rooms. My room, located on the first floor with a basement level, boasts a cypress bathtub and private hot spring bath. It's spacious and comfortable, even including a welcome minibar—red wine, white wine, and beer are all available free of charge. This arrangement gives you the illusion of relaxing in your own villa.
However, the structure of this century-old machiya also presents challenges. The wooden floors are extremely thin, allowing footsteps from above and coughs from the next door to be clearly heard. Especially on weekend nights, the bustling street outside intermingles with the echoing sounds inside, making it difficult for light sleepers to fully settle in. To avoid this, it's recommended to choose a room on the second floor , which is much quieter.
Meals: The atmosphere at Kawabata is better than the food itself
Dinner at the inn was served in a century-old house next door, featuring French cuisine. The cost per person was 10,000 yen , almost half of which went towards the "Kawadoko" experience. The dishes, from appetizers to fish dishes to beef main courses, were impeccable in presentation, but the flavors were rather ordinary. If you're looking for a culinary experience that excites, Kyoto City may offer many more options worth exploring.
The truly unforgettable experience is sitting on the riverbed above the Kamogawa River, the autumn breeze caressing the water and the intertwining sounds of people. It's a kind of romance that only Kyoto can offer. To experience it, be sure to reserve a riverbed seat by October 15th , the last hour between summer and autumn. This isn't a "must-try" dinner, but it is a truly worthwhile experience.
Breakfast: Walking into Heian Shrine from the Morning Light
Breakfast isn't served at the inn, but at a separate restaurant. The inn provides taxi vouchers (the ride takes about 15 minutes and costs 3,000 yen, but the actual cost is only about 1,500 yen), allowing guests to move freely. After breakfast, the restaurant arranges for guests to go directly to Heian Shrine for a 20-30 minute morning walk. This arrangement is more like a "breakfast + a short trip" combination, allowing you to unexpectedly encounter the shrine's vermilion torii gates in the Kyoto morning light.
Who is it for? Who is it not for?
This hostel is not designed for everyone. Its value lies in experiencing the atmosphere rather than pursuing perfect comfort.
Suitable for:
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For travelers visiting Kyoto for the first time and wanting to experience staying in a machiya
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People who pursue atmosphere but can tolerate some inconvenience
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Travelers with a limited budget who want spacious rooms with a historical feel
Not suitable for people:
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Those who are extremely sensitive to sound and need a completely quiet environment
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People who regard dining experience as the core of travel
One Night in Kyoto
This isn't a perfect accommodation, but it's a Kyoto memory worth cherishing. You'll hear the creaking of wood at night, imagining the same footsteps a century ago; you'll feel the steam and autumn breeze on the riverbed, understanding the meaning of "Kyoto romance"; and in the morning light of Heian Shrine, you'll tune into the rhythm of the ancient capital.
Would I go again? Probably not. But is it worth a try? Absolutely.
